PCT Days 40 & 41 – VVR

F VVR 1915

I did not wear my earplugs last night. The gurgling stream by my tent lobbied against them.

Touch

People ask me what I miss the most on trail. I think they expect me to say something about food, sleeping or personal hygiene. What I miss is touch.

With COVID protocols we are all a little touch deprived. But on the trail it can be even worse because almost everyone you meet is a stranger. In my forty days on the trail I can remember the five times I touched someone. I shook TW’s hand when he left South Lake Tahoe. I gripped Bob’s shoulder to emphasize a point. I hugged Lynne and shook Dave’s hand when they dropped us off in Mammoth Lakes. I hugged Bob in the restaurant when I left him for the trail.

That’s it. In 40 days. I have started touching trees and rocks more. Maybe I am trying to establish a bond with the planet now. It’s not enough that I am walking all day on it or sleeping on it. In those activities I am shielded by shoes and tent.

The last thing I want to be is the lonely creepy guy on the trail. But I miss regular human interaction. I miss touch. What I wouldn’t give to have someone hold my hand for one minute.

The plan

Oddly I am still not sure if I should walk into VVR via the access trail or wait for the ferry. In any event, I will go over Silver Pass first thing and descend toward VVR. Simple.

Silver Pass

Near the top of the pass is the nameless lake I had considered camping near. It is beautiful but the tent pads are small and rocky.

Up on the rocks in a tiny tent spot is Kipper and Whistler. They are up and in good spirits. They are going to catch the ferry. I tell them I will meet them there. I climb higher. The Sun wants to get involved.

Looking back down Cascade Valley, you can see the entrance to the canyons I visited yesterday. They are little indentions along the ridge on the right. Purple Lake, Virginia Lake and Tully Hole are there.

And finally I reach the pass. There is a wide open area here with a couple lakes. There is that airy light feeling all around – reminiscent of all the passes I have crossed so far.

And then down I go. The trail is rocky and uneven with a lot of steps. I don’t envy the folks climbing up this side. It is gorgeous though. About half way down I get cell service for the first time in a few days. I get a quick call through to Patti.

And then I have some flowers to cheer me up, too.

I love the light up here. I’m sorry for inundating you with all these trail pictures, but they really are special today.

Waiting for a boat

I arrive at the landing where the ferry will pick us up for our trip to VVR. Lake Edison is an artificial lake created by the power company. The lake levels have been drawn down for the third year in a row because low rain levels means this lake has to supply water to other area lakes. I guess the level is 25 feet below normal. This means that hikers like me have to walk about 3/4 mile to a new landing on the lake bottom. This sign shows the way.

I am not here long before I am joined by Fugitive and then Kipper and Whistler.

We flop down on the ground and chat. I edit my posts so I can put them up quickly at VVR. I would like to spend only one night there. But until I get there, it is hard to know what can be accomplished. I also need to put together a plan for the next section to Kearsage Pass.

We are soon joined by more hikers. I know almost all of them. Pam and Erin are there too. It’s ten of us and we all trudge out to the lake. Luckily the boat is larger than we were led to believe and we can all find seats.

I notice a cell phone on the seat and ask the driver if it belongs to him. He says no. So that means that it belongs to one of the two hikers who just got off the boat. I grab the phone and race after them, hoping to shout them down, but they are too far away. I will give it to the folks at the resort. Perhaps they will have a way of reaching the owner.

And here we go across the lake.

Surprised and confused

Trucks pick us up at the landing and take us to the lodge. I get a shower and start my laundry. Then it’s time to eat.

At dinner I learn more about Fugitive. The fugitive thing is not a joke. It was hard to get the details of this story perfect, but in Russia she started speaking out against Putin and the government. There were consequences. She lost her job and her family disowned her. She left for America. Returning could precipitate her arrest. She is working with a lawyer in New York for asylum. I am still not quite sure how the hike figures into this. But it seems she had wanted to do this for a while and it worked out well as she hides her time in legal limbo.

Accommodations

The hostel is a six bed room in a tent cabin. I am there with two women, Kelsi and Brandi. Yes, I know it seems strange, but this is what hostels are like.

After a poor sleep (you know how I am in town) I get up and at it. I have to accumulate 7 days of food (ugh) and finish all my posts. The boat back to the trail leaves at 3:45.

Vectors

Everything is moving smoothly. It looks like Fugitive is getting off the trail for LA. I’m not sure how she is getting there, but her plans have been changing constantly since we arrived. Whatever happens, I wish her the best.

A hiker I met yesterday has really gone out of her way to assist Fugitive. Her name is Cate (trail name Support). She is twenty four but people have assumed she is anywhere from 18 to 30. I can see why people think she is older. She is so mature for her age. Her willing assistance to Fugitive is an example of this. Cate is going Sobo like the rest of us.

Amazingly, as I walk by a group of men I hear one explaining how he had returned last night to reclaim his phone! The phone is the one I found on the boat at the landing! The details of this reunion are too convoluted to address, but I was happy to see that he had his phone again. His (real) name is River.

It also looks like Kipper and Whistler are heading out with us today, too. We will all be camping at the trailhead where the PCT/JMT meet the trail to VVR. It should be fun.

I have so much pent up energy after just one day of rest. Part of it is my normal nervous anxiety. But for the first time since I got here I feel positive about what lies ahead. The next seven days will be challenging, maybe the most challenging since I started 40 days ago. But I am sure it will all work out, and I will have the time of my life.

• September 5 & 6
• Starting marker: 887.4
• Ending marker: 878.7
• Miles hiked today: 9
• Total PCT miles: 471
• How much does 7 days of food weigh? About 14 lbs