PCT Days 34 & 35 – Mammoth Lakes

Yesterday, before Bob and I started eating eating dinner, the group that we had met earlier in the day rolled into Glen Aulin. They were in high spirits, since this was their last night on the trail. I hailed them from my campsite as they passed. In all there were six people – two couples and two singles.

I spoke with a tall young man who looked like a seasoned hiker. It turns out he was the guide for the party. The rest were acquaintances form the San Francisco Bay Area. The young man’s name was Michael (trail name Six Toes – no he did not elaborate). Anyway, Michael seemed to be doing his job because the group was having a blast.

The truth

Bob’s injury did not keep him awake last night, but he is moving slow this morning. He seems to recall it differently today though. At first he says he fell when a bear jumped out at him. Then later it was a mountain lion. Later still it was Bob that ran down the mountain lion and got injured as they grappled on the ground. “He might have put this little mark on me, but you should’ve seen what I did to him!”

Seriously, Bob has re-evaluated his hike. He says he needs to slow down. It is all he can do to hike all day and he is not enjoying it like he could. From now on he wants to go slower and look around more. Bob also wants to go into Mammoth Lakes today, spend three nights and then start hiking again at Reds Meadow, skipping about 45 miles of trail.

I point out that he is also not eating enough. In town he eats like a horse. I can’t keep up with him. But in the trail he is losing weight fast. You can tell by comparing photos of him in Beldon Town with some of my latest photos.

All this means that we will be splitting up. I am spending two nights in Mammoth, enough time to get all my shopping, boxes, blogging done and then heading back to Tuolumne Meadows to continue where I left off. I may meet Bob down the trail at some point, but it is probably unlikely that we will hike together again for more than a day.

So this morning was rather poignant for me as we hiked into Tuolumne Meadows. Yosemite was spectacular, so that cheered me up, but I will miss Bob’s insight and most of all his company. He is a fine person and a great outdoorsman. Here is what I see as we hike out this morning.

Trouble brewing

It wasn’t all beautiful though. As I got higher above Glen Aulin looking back I see three distinct blazes burning in the canyon southwest of the camp. The wind is blowing the smoke away from the camp, but it still worried me a bit. I know that fire is beneficial in Yosemite, but I still have the same innate fear of it shared by all creatures.

The John Muir Trail

About a mile from the road that leads to the post office and store, the PCT merges with the John Muir Trail (JMT). For the next 160 miles the two trails will travel together as one trail or parallel each other. The John Muir Trail begins in Yosemite valley and ends with an ascent of Mount Whitney. The ascent is not part of the PCT, but I plan to do it anyway because Mt. Whitney is the tallest mountain in the contiguous US (the lower 48 states).

Tuolumne Meadows

I have a food box waiting for me at the post office at Tuolumne Meadows Store. The store is a short walk (3/4 mile) from the trail. I am surprised to see that it is actually a tent.

I guess they disassemble it in the off season as the road is closed and everything is covered in snow. I go straight for the Cokes. I also get some yogurt and a fresh peach.

The post office is a different matter. As you know, I have been highlighting postal service workers in this blog. It seems like the farther away from the big city you go, the more pleasant they become. The clerk at the Post Office is named Michael. He met me outside the store to offer helpful hints about navigating the store, the post office, and the (closed) campground. But look at what he’s done to help make the boxes stand out!

When I mention that we are walking one mile to the visitor center to hitchhike to Mammoth Lakes, he offers to make me a sign. It takes about 10 minutes, but here it is. He asks that I return it when I come back so other hikers can use it. OK, so maybe it’s not that easy to read from a passing car, but it’s the thought that counts, right?

A way out

Bob’s leg is not feeling great, but it doesn’t feel too bad on the road so we hike west along the road toward the visitor center. It is there that the road crew is organizing these car trains to keep traffic to one lane on the road. If Bob and I can reach the place where cars are held up, we can simply walk down the row of cars, looking needy and exhausted, holding our cardboard sign, pleading for a ride. In short, we have become panhandlers.

It’s amazing the responses you get when you look people in the eye and ask for a ride. Some people roll up their windows, quickly looking straight ahead. Others explain why they can’t help us (no room, not going our way, etc). Some just shake their head or glare at you. But on this particular day, someone smiles and says, “Hey guys, it’s great to see you again. Jump in. We can give you a lift if you don’t mind us stopping off for lunch on the way.”

It’s two people from the group of six that we met on the trail yesterday and who camped at Glen Aulin with us last night! The car is a Tesla so I am really tickled to get in. I have never been in one and it is super cool.

The couple is Dave and Lynne. They have never in their life picked up hitchhikers before now. Lynn is a great conversationalist and before you know it we are laughing and sharing our stories. For lunch we stop at this famous gas station with a restaurant run by a renowned chef. It was wonderful and weird.

Dave and Lynne drop us off at the Motel 6 and depart. Bob says that was some amazing trail magic. I tell him that it is the result of friendliness. Friendliness begets friends. Bob says his wife was like that. I feel honored to be included in that company.

Town chores

This early stop in Mammoth Lakes has jumbled my plans. I have to buy more food, sending some of it to the post office at Independence. I pick up my bounce box from the post office. I mail my rain gear home.

New clothes

I ditch my hiking shorts which have holes in the liner. I buy a pair of convertible pants – pants with lower legs that zip on or off. I need to wear underwear with the new pants, so I buy some. Most poignantly, I have to get new shoes. My old ones have about 425 miles on them and the cushioning and soles are breaking down. Luckily the store has the same model shoe. I bid my old ride good bye.

Good byes

Bob and I have been eating well for a few days. On our last night in town, Bob and I go across the street for one last meal together. It’s been fun, but our paths will now part. Safe travels Bob.

In a rare moment, Bob volunteers some secret information. He has been having so much fun at my expense about the spoon that I think he finally feels bad enough to throw me a bone. In the most serious tone he mentions that the bear spray he had been carrying mysteriously disappeared as he entered the area where he could have been fined for possession of it.

We drink our beers in silence, wondering what could have happened. There is a saying among hikers: “The trail provides.” We know this to be true. We are counting on it as we part.

• August 30
• Starting marker: 948.3
• Ending marker: 942.1
• Miles hiked today: 6
• Total PCT miles: 408
• Enduring question: Am I my brother’s keeper?