Last night was much better. I was as snug as a bug in a rug. My quilt was warm and toasty and the night temps did not drop below 58 degrees. It seems that camping at the suspension bridge was a good idea. We are out of camp by 7am.
The plan is pretty simple. We need to go over Glen Pass which is 8.3 miles away and up 3400 feet. After that we need to go down to one of the trails that leads across Kearsarge Pass and camp there so we can hike out over the pass in the morning and catch a ride into Independence.
Looking up
I am encouraged by the early skies. Bob and I are both sick of gray skies and rain. This morning there is some blue as the clouds seem to dissipate.
But then the opposite starts to happen. We are engulfed by clouds that are following us up the canyon. What have we done to deserve this? It seems like clouds follow us wherever we go, up or down.
You might think being in a cloud is fun. It is not. Clouds are cold. Oh they try to look cheerful to us on the ground, they look like they could be our friends, but clouds are cold hearted. Clouds that get overly excited drop rain. But when clouds have it together, they keep their rain inside. So when you are in a cloud, the rain is still there. It is just not falling.
After about two hours of this a miracle occurs and the sun breaks through the cloud. We drop our packs and enjoy the sun for five minutes. It will be the only five minutes of sunshine all day.
Every now and the a bright patch of sky breaks through. I snap a picture hoping that capturing the sky on media will somehow fasten it up there.
Then the rain begins. Bob and I quickly grab our $2 ponchos and put them on.
The Ranger Station
There is a permanent ranger station at Rae Lakes, six miles from where we started. Someone has told us that the cabin has a porch, but the ranger is away from the cabin at this time. Bob and I make plans to hang out at the porch. Maybe we will eat lunch there.
When we arrive, others are there. I recognize them from Pinchot Pass. The second woman from the left is the one that attached my gaiter for me.
They are kind of shell-shocked. They spent a miserable night up here with hard rain and low temps all night. They are unsure if they should attempt to cross the path. It is not raining now, but it could start again and the pass is exposed for two miles on each side.
They decide to make a dash for it and Bob and I have the porch to ourselves.
Going for it
Bob is not so sure about going up now. I convince him to risk it. It seems like rain is the worst we could and we have our superior rain gear to protect us.
Up we go. The hiking is not that bad. We make good time. Glen Pass is hidden from view for most of the approach. And then I see it. It looks like a lot of passes: a low spot between two peaks.
I make it up there first, but the weather has suddenly turned. A steady stream of cold mist is blowing across the pass from the other side.
Looking back on the Rae Lakes, it appears that some kind of mountain demon is staring into the valley from the peak above.
The other side, the side we are hiking into, is a whiteout.
As Bob approaches the pass, he snaps my picture. I seem to be enjoying myself. Perversely, I guess I am. I laugh in adversity’s face!
When Bob arrives, I take a quick photo and we go into the freezing mist looking for shelter and a protected spot to eat a snack and plan for camp.
We get to the trail that goes by Bullfrog Lake. We search for a hour for a suitable place to camp. I don’t take any pictures because it is raining and all I can think about is getting in my tent, taking off these wet clothes and getting warm.
I am out of food except for snacks. Bob brings me some hot water and I make warm milk again to go with my Oreos. I am damp in the tent but slowly warming. Bob and I are in crash mode. We just want the night to be over so we can get someplace warm.
Tomorrow. Tomorrow
- September 13
- Starting marker: 799.7
- Ending marker: 788.5
- Miles hiked today: 11
- Total PCT miles: 561
It looks a bit like the Equinox has come!