PCT Day 28 – Kennedy Meadows

At 11pm, the generator for Kennedy Meadows shuts down and everything goes black. If you think there is a reason to be up past that, you can provide your own power.

Don’t interpret that as a criticism of this place. This is a mountain resort. Utilities are not taken for granted here as they are in the cities with their unlimited power, water and communication services.

Every day numerous trail rides depart and return. People make this their base for horseback riding, fishing and hunting too. There is a bunkhouse and cabins. What is more remarkable is how they cater to PCT hikers. There is a twice-daily shuttle from the PCT ten miles away to the resort. WiFi, a shower and free laundry machines are included in the $50 daily fee. Sorry if I sound like their pitch man, but I really do love it here.

Memories

If you read my blog last year, you may remember that this was the place I learned that California had closed all the National Forests. I had made my way here by train, bus, and hitch in the wackiest odyssey imaginable.

At that time it seemed like Kennedy Meadows was one of the most normal places around. And here I am again, having hiked through last year’s burn areas and just now starting to feel stronger on the trail.

Laundry

My wife does not allow me to do laundry. She is very particular about it, and if I did laundry she would have to do it over all the time. Laundry on the trail has greater significance. It makes you human again – even more than a good shower. My clothes from the last section were the worst I have ever experienced. They did not just get dirty; they started to evolve!

Because my shirt bears a pattern, it is harder to see how filthy it is, but those shorts. Those white lines are salt deposits. They don’t just lay on the surface of the cloth – they permeate it. The salt, when combined with the sweat that runs down my back and soaks my shorts every day, turns the fabric into the same kind of fabric they make plaster casts out of – or mummy rags.

I used to think it was a figure of speech when people would say the clothes were so dirty you could stand them against the wall. It is not, because mine are. Dirty salty clothes are the primary reason for chafing. You might think I could just rinse them out in a creek somewhere and let the air dry. Believe me, I have considered it, but that would violate the oath I signed to get my hiking permit to Leave No Trace. Why couldn’t we just “ leave few traces?”

Friends

There is only one hiker in the bunkhouse when we arrive. His name is Matt and he is from SoCal. He has hiked through the desert and he has some tips for me on staying cool and hydrated. I, er, soak it up. Here’s Matt giving himself some foot care.

More hikers come as the day goes on. We discuss all things trail related under a tent the employees have erected for us hiking types. We exchange information and gossip.

I text Moving Target to see if he made it to the trail as planned. He did. But he is about 13 days behind me. MT reached Canada one day after me last year. His goal, like mine, is to finish this year. I hope to see him again before it’s all over.

Fires

The fires here never completely go away. This year it was Yosemite’s turn in the feature spotlight. Right now hikers coming from the south are reporting smoke on the trail from the Roger’s fire.

After discussing the fire and the possible mitigation strategies we decide to just walk up to where the smoke has been and decide what to do when we get there.

Food

I am trying some new food on the next section. I am having a giant cookie for breakfast, some dehydrated refried beans for dinner, candy bars and Spam too. I will let you see it when I eat it. Here is the enormous bear canister I am forced to carry for the next three hundred miles. I think I have devised a way to haul all my stuff in that small pack of mine.

Next steps

The resort shuttle takes us back to the trailhead in the morning. Bob and I have a plan to get to Tuolumne Meadows. Plans settle me, so I feel great about returning to the PCT tomorrow.

The Sierra sections have limited WiFi. This may be the last post you read for a while. I will be in Mammoth Lakes in 8 days. I will take one or two zeros there. Right now I need sleep. Two bowls of I cream can really take their toll on you.

• August 25
• Marker: 1016.9
• Zero day
• Most dangerous moment: When the grizzled resort dog gave me the stink eye for sitting next to her on the couch