PCT Day 23 – Dappled

Having completed almost everything on my list over two days, I was much more relaxed last night. I put the finishing touches on the blog post for the day, but then it wouldn’t save. The trouble got worse and worse until my whole website seemed to fail. I decided to sleep on it and try again in the morning.

I woke at 3:30am and couldn’t resist trying to solve the problem, but nothing worked. I put my phone down and made a decision. No matter what happens with the blog, I can’t let it hold me up. Blogging is secondary. Hiking is why I am here. I will work on those problems when I have time, but if it means not posting again until I return home, then so be it. I felt much better after that. I slept straight through to 6am.

On a whim I rebooted my phone in the morning. Problems solved! I quickly uploaded the last post and headed out the door. Our Uber was on his way.

Back on the trail

I am a little confused about what we are doing. That is fairly normal. I figure let’s just start walking and we can hammer out the details on the way.

I start by walking off in the wrong direction. This too is fairly normal. Who knows how far I might have gone down the Pony Express Trail if Bob had not yelled at me?

OK. Going the right direction, I try to get into observer mode. Nothing is there. Everything is a mottling of gray, black and green. The sun, my friend, is holding back on me. This dappled sunlight pattern covers everything.

Wait. Someone is coming down the trail towards me. I can’t believe it, he is a wearing camouflage shirt. Even the humans out here are dappled. As he walks by something else seems odd. Too late I notice that he is bare-footed. His father is following him. Dad says, “Oh, to be 21 again,” and rolls his eyes.

I went through the bare foot phase when I was old enough to know better. I ended up breaking my foot before it was over. I hope it works out better for this young fellow. May his inner caveman the find peace and fulfillment that eluded me.

Finding my footing

The trail goes up 1400 feet in the first three miles. The average grade is 12%. Any sustained climb at this pitch makes my heart work hard. However there are some sections where the grade is 25%! My heart is really pounding now.

The trail is pretty rocky. You have to watch every foot placement.

For the last 250 miles I have been watching these insane rodents dashing across and along the trail. They have black and white racing stripes on their back and they have only one speed: fast. They rocket around like motorized ankle-height roller skates, their jaunty tails raised like a cyclist flag. But today, I see something new. It’s grey and like a fat mouse. It actually runs toward me. When perfectly still, it looks like a rock. There is one in this next photo. Can you pick it out?

At the top the forest falls away abut and I start to see the peaks around me. The most prominent of them on the ridge to the east is Steven’s Peak at just a little over 10,000 feet.

In the opposite direction I get my last view of Lake Tahoe.

Rescue Riders

As we go down, I am having a real problem with my footing. I lose my balance three times going downhill as my foot shoots out over slippery stones. The fourth time this happens, I actually fall. My knee buckles and I fall backwards on my butt. I am OK, but not happy. I need to be more mindful. A sprained knee could put me off the trail.

Not long after this, I am rescued from my self-deprecation by these three riders. One of them makes a startling observation about me as she rides by.

Maybe she was talking about Bob. Anyway, the bright colors return to the world.

Cabin home

Steven’s Peak is much closer now and we enter this beautiful little valley. Over one hundred years ago this valley was owned by settlers who brought cattle up here to graze in the summer. They built a little cabin for them and there 10 kids. The cabin still stands today.

Bob and I decide to stop here for the night. We have plenty of time and food to get to Kennedy Meadows North. Plus, we are kind of happy with this quaint cabin. We find an unlocked window and look inside.

It has been a typically awkward day. But that’s how my first day back on the trail usually goes. Tomorrow we hope to find trail magic at Carson Pass. I have been gone from town less than a day and already I am craving an ice cold orange soda!

• August 19
• Starting marker: 1090.1
• Ending marker: 1079.6
• Miles hiked today: 11
• Total PCT miles hiked: 273
• Unexpected moment: random compliment from the morale brigade