As the day ended yesterday with everyone in their beds, Spacemaker watching a movie on his phone and me writing, a buck stumbled into our normally deserted campsite and objected to the whole arrangement. He started snorting and stomping and charged off into the brush. The odd thing about the incident is that nobody raised an eyebrow. Someone from inside a tent asked what that was. I said deer. And we all resumed what we were doing.
Hanging out with everyone before bed got me behind again, and I did not finish writing until 10 pm. Maybe that’s why I slept through my alarm again. Or maybe sleeping through my alarm is normal. The Wanders had announced that they would be sleeping until 5am. I knew that was a lie, and sure enough, they were rousing at 4:40 am (although that is late for them.) The whole camp is empty by 5:30.
The opportunities for camping and water are limited today. The Wanders and I are going to do 17. Yesterday was hot and long, and the plan is to ease into Shelter Cove in four days. I might accelerate the pace on the last two days to get there early. We shall see. These plans seem to change hourly.
Oregon as it should be
The trail starts out looking like Oregon is supposed to look like: smooth trail guarded by large trees with little deadfall. And this is what it stays like most of the day.
I hope this next picture shows up well. Do you see those peaks on the horizon. They are actually the high points of the caldera around Crater Lake. That volcano must have been enormous before it exploded and collapsed. The peaks around the rim are big enough to be among the tallest mountains in Oregon.
There is another mountain that has my attention: the one I am climbing – Mount Thielsen. It has a strikingly jagged peak that sets it apart from the others:
The panoramic eye candy is all around. Looking west from Thielsen is Diamond Lake.
The ascent is beautifully covered with flowers. The red are Indian Paintbrush. I have not seen the purple ones before.
We emerge onto a shoulder of the mountain and realize we have 3 bars of cell service. We take care of some quick online business, and I get a call through to Patti for the first rime in days. She is doing great and managing all those little things that come up. I linger talking as the Women move on. I catch up at the next watering spot.
They are finishing eating, and preparing to move on, but what a view. Mount Thielsen towers above us as water melting from its glacier cascades by us.
A Washington survivor
About an hour later I run into hikers I go not know. They are Dapper and U-turn.
Dapper started on the trail a few weeks ago in Washington! I am very curious about his experience because most southbound hikers that start in Washington wait until July to start. To make matters worse, Washington had enormous amounts of snow this year. Dapper tells me one harrowing tale after another. First, there is no trail. Dapper navigated by GPS on his watch. The trail is covered by up to 12 feet of snow. Several times Dapper fell into an ice well, once right over a waterfall of snow melt. He held on and lived to tell about it. Eventually he decided to get off the trail. He came to “tamer” Crater Lake with U-turn and are heading north. Hopefully by the time he reaches Washington again, conditions will have improved.
A perfect landing
As the afternoon begins, the temps rise into the low 90s. The forest opens up a bit and I find myself picking up the pace between shady spots. As I duck into the shade here, I find that the mountain shares my opinion about the heat.
Still even in the heat, the trail finds new ways to impress me. This red butte is unusual.
As I reach the camp for the night, the Wanders have started setting up. From our camp, a trail leads down to a Maidu Lake. We all need water, and we will need to carry water in the morning for about three hours. It is a mile to the lake so we collect enough that we won’t have to come back in the morning. We see a snake, frogs and dragonflies – about what you would expect.
It has been one of my best days on the trail. The views were spectacular, the people interesting and we all got in bed at a decent hour. Not sure if I will take it easy tomorrow too, or do more miles to reach Shelter Cove sooner. We will see how the day plays out
- July 3
- Starting mile: 1848
- Ending mile: 1865
- Daily PCT miles: 17
- Total PCT miles: 493
- Animals: Snorting buck
I am intrigued with your interest and commitment to your alarm clock and hitting the trail early. I wonder if your conditions were absent the heat, would the alarm still matter? Trek on Doolittle.
I do not manage time well. The “brute force” solution is to start early. Then, even though I may dawdle some during the day, I can still reach my daily destination. I also like to avoid the heat, for reasons I have already mentioned. Just trying to do what’s best for me!
Thanks for another interesting update! When I heard you planned to hike the PCT, my initial response matched the expression on that rock in your photograph. But your updates help me see the appeal of this hike. I look forward to reading more.
As I read each update, I reflect on your mental state from your writing early on. You have truly settled in and have a peaceful yet purposeful way about your journey. You’ve grown stronger on the trail. Keep the updates coming! Stay strong.
I have sometimes been a little bit of a mess, and I may be again in the future, but you are right, I feel more centered every day.
Dave, Great day and post!….the pics lend their assent as u tell the story.
That u said it was your best day of hiking, I’d agree just from the tone of your post. The allure of backpacking to me has always been the simplicity of being under your own power and the just reward if seeing beauty of nature. If I could paint a picture of heaven it would be very similar to your pic of Mt Thielsen …the towering massif, white snow “sand traps “, green trees, blue skies and glistening water… paradise on Earth So many of our hikes… sitting in grandeur like that, is what puts you in awe of God. Have another great next PCT day!
Well said, Lisa.
More gorgeous views and love seeing all the flower pics. Keep on keeping on sir, you’re an inspiration!!
I miss you guys