PCT Day 8 – The Eagle Has Landed

I was pretty excited about cowboy camping last night. The winds stayed low and the temperature was perfect – high 40’s. When I finished writing, I flipped over on my back and looked at the stars. Surprisingly, the top of my quilt was wet. Not just damp. Wet. Like someone had turned the shower on me for five seconds. The sun had just gone down and the condensation had formed that quickly!

I did not fret, amazingly. I decided that if it got worse or if my down comforter got soaked, I would just deal with it. I had a tent and some other clothes. I would figure it out.

It did not get worse. I slept great, and I got to see two shooting stars and a satellite (or something!) when I woke during the night.

Dr. Doolittle

This morning Keith also comments about the heavy dew. We still haven’t figured out why two apparently similar days will produce different levels of dew.

Either way, I have a special operation to perform this morning. Keith has been struggling with blisters. His bandaids have not been helping. I suggest a different treatment using a combination of bandaid pad and Lueko tape. In five minutes I have him all bandaged up. Keith asked me not to take a picture of his feet in case you might be squeamish. But we have more permanent solution in mind. (No, not amputation!) Today we are going to town to get Keith some new shoes.

The early trail

This morning we continue walking the ridge above Montezuma Valley. It’s about 5 miles from our campsite at 4400 feet to the barrel spring at 3450 feet where we will get water.

Since the trail tries to remain relatively level we enter and exit some deep canyons along the ridge. It’s like a mountainous jungle.

I decide to hunt flowers. Here is one that is really hard to appreciate except in the right light. It’s a flower that could have been created by Dr. Seuss.

I also like how this tall grass shimmers along the trail. I hope you can see how it catches the light.

I have seen several snakes along the trail, but this one is common where hikers travel. It is the dreaded strap snake. These snakes lay innocuously along the trail motionless. But turn your back and they will leap at you, attaching themselves to the sides of your pack. I have heard that hikers with a lot of these strap snakes have turned other hikers to stone.

As I warily scan the trail for more strap snakes, I find a welcome marker.

It’s an accomplishment but I can’t get too excited about. So much still remains. Mercedes reminds me of this as she walks up behind us and declines my offer to take her photo. “I will take a photo at mile 704,” she says. (That is the marker for Kennedy Meadows South.) “When I get through the desert, I will celebrate.”

Cattle lands

The barrel spring is shaded and cool. Lots of hikers are lingering here. The next eight miles are through the cattle lands – rolling hills and open pastures. Warner Springs is at the end of this section. We have boxes waiting at the post office and cold drinks at the convenience store!

The trail here looks a lot like it did in Boulder Oaks on our third day. This valley is dominated by two creeks: Buena Vista and San Ysidro. Near the creeks are these ancient sheltering oaks among lush grasses.

The trail rises into the hills. As we round a bend, the cattle lands come into view. The familiar smell of cow manure greets me. (Pleasant childhood memories make me like this smell.) I stop and count over a dozen crows flying below me. Trails cross cross the area. Vehicles, cattle and hikers have all left their mark.

We are heading toward one of the iconic landmarks along the PCT – Eagle Rock. In the distance we see several boulder piles jutting out of the land. Eagle Rock is one of them.

Eagle Rock is very impressive.

Warner Springs

It’s five miles to Warner Springs and my “town feet” take over. I love the trail, but a nice cold drink and some AC are a welcome change. Warner Springs is a hiker-friendly village of about 200 people. It is a mile off the trail. We pick up our resupply boxes at the post office.

When we ask the clerk how we might get a ride into Julian, she suggests we look at the Resource Center. We might find a ride there. Two minutes later we meet a man who offers us a ride to the Resource Center!

Brent says he just yesterday met a lady giving rides to Julian. We call her and in 30 seconds it’s all arranged. As luck would have it she works at the shoe store where Keith is headed. We are hoping that new shoes and a couple nights in town will get Keith back on track.

Julian

California is not like you see on TV. California is a western state. The stores in Julian mostly all close at 5 or six. They don’t open until 9 or 10. People sit on porches at night. Kids are in the streets in their pajamas in the morning. This town runs on its own time.

We pack into our tiny Air B&B and explode our stuff every where. I will sleep on the floor. Keith gets the bed since he paid.

Keith hopes that new shoes will be the answer for him. I hope so, too. He may take a few more days off and meet me in Idyllwild. He is weighing his options. Either way, I am heading back to the trail after two nights here. The hottest sections are still ahead. I can’t delay longer.

• May 12, 2023
• Starting marker: 96.5
• Ending marker: 109.3
• Total miles today: 14 (1.2 into Warner Springs)
• Total PCT miles: 12.8