Landers Camp was more comfortable than I expected. The wind was fine until about 4 am. It was noisy after that, but I was ready to get up, so it didn’t matter.
We rise in the dark as per usual so we can leave by 5:30. The other hikers are still in bed when we leave. Trail magic is coming to this campsite at 9am. They will all wait for that. A cold drink would be nice, but we don’t need food so we leave as we normally do.
Early trail
The trail goes up out of camp. The sun is up but it has not risen above the hill we are climbing.
When it does rise, it pokes it head over the hill at the place where the trail meets the sky. Will the sun keep rising or roll down the hill at me like a fiery ball in a giant pinball game.
I am not sure what these berry-like flowers are, but each flower has a rabbit head on it.
Are we the only ones who want to be up this morning. Even these rocks by the trail seem to be resting their sleepy heads on the ground.
After a couple of miles, the trail makes a long slow descent into Butterbredt Canyon. Just before we reach the bottom, a massive water cache awaits us. It is the last available water for the 15 miles after that. We will stock up. We know the drill.
When I reach the top of the climb, a surprising vista is there.
Those mountains in the distance are new. The tallest ones are shrouded in cloud. Mount Olancha is over 12,000 feet high. But the biggest is Mount Langley. At just over 14,000 feet it is the southernmost of all US “fourteeners”.
As we drop down further new features. Come into view.
The canyon on the left is bright Star Canyon. The dark mountain is Mayan Peak. After we stop for water, we are going to walk past the right side of Mayan Peak.
Just then I catch movement along the trail ahead. It’s a bear. I can only see his midsection and rear end as he disappears to the left. He is black, long and lean. I have seen bears in my two previous years on the trail. This makes three. I am counting this year’s sighting as a full bear because two thirds is equal to one if you round up.
Water for days
The cache at Kelso Valley Road is enormous. I estimate there are 80 five-gallon bottles here. We “camel up” (drink as much as we can), collect 4 liters for today and tomorrow and head out.
The next few hours of hiking are spectacular. The weather is moderate, the breeze refreshing, and the trail soft and responsive. I am so full of energy. With almost 600 miles on my legs, I feel strong. The eight pounds of water I just picked up feels light.
I meet A hiker coming my way. Her name is Belinda. I ask her about the trail ahead. She confirms our camping choice for the night. She is just hiking this section. Her husband is picking her up in Tehachapi.
The flowers in this section are small but vibrant. The fuzzy stems on these white flowers is so special.
But it’s these purple flowers that really steal the show.
And finally, these red thistle. Do you like the red better than the pink?
And while I am flower hunting, I catch my first horny toad! His lips look like a baby bird’s.
Wind tunnel
The rest of the day is dominated by wind. Except for the winds I have experienced in a hurricane, I can’t recall ever walking in wind this strong. Sustained winds were easily 35 mph with gusts up to 50!
We seek shelter for lunch in the shade of a Joshua tree. It’s actually cool in the shade. It’s the relentless wind we seek respite from.
It’s less than 5 miles from camp, but Belinda warned us that there was no good place to camp after that. The wind increases substantially. My main concern now is getting some shelter.
Our camp is slightly sheltered. Still, Seven has to place big rocks on all his tent stakes. I don’t even mess with a tent. My tent would not last 10 minutes in this wind. Instead I opt for cowboy camping. I can always pull my head into my quilt if the wind blows too hard. I will probably be covered in dirt by morning, but I should at least stay put on the ground. We shall see.
- June 19, 2023
- Starting marker: 610.1
- Ending marker: 625.5
- Miles hiked today: 15
- Total PCT miles: 596