Bob and I camped “low” last night out of discretion. With the weather as it was, we did not want any drama up near the pass. The skies remained cloudy for the first half of the night. But just before dawn the clouds rolled partly back. By dawn we were looking at partly cloudy skies with most of the clouds concentrated over Mather Pass.
Although camping low was smart, it puts us farther from the pass. That means we must first climb 1800 feet to Palisade Lakes and then an additional 1200 feet to the pass which is at 12,094 feet.
The Golden Staircase
Yes, the first section we climb is called The Golden Staircase. I am not sure why. There are some step-like stones. But this is not unusual on the PCT. They are not golden either. Oh well. As I climb, I get a great view of the valley behind me. You can see how the skies have cleared.
Water is coursing beside me all the way up as the Palisade Lakes are shedding all the rain from yesterday.
OK, this next photo was so much fun. It’s another view of the valley behind me, but there is something unusual about it. Can you see it? I will give the answer at the end of the post.
Palisade Lakes
Lower Pallisade Lake is where we stop for water and a breather. There are all kinds of little fish jumping in the water. How do they survive the winters?
By the time we get to the far end of the lake, the skies have started darkening. Both Bob and I think we might see some weather before we reach the pass.
Mather Pass
With the lakes behind me, it is 1200 feet up to Mather Pass. It’s nothing but rock, of course. The pass is the low spot on the horizon.
The closer we get to the pass, the more the weather improves. By the time the pass is only 100 feet above me, the clouds have almost all fled and the sky is shockingly blue.
I reach the pass and look down into a whole new world. Well, maybe it just looks like another valley. But I am pretty excited to be looking at something new. My next pass, Pinchot Pass is between those mountains on the horizon. I will walk down into that valley and through the trees on the far end. At the end of the day I hope to be more than halfway up those far mountains.
Bob arrives and we have lunch at 12,000 feet.
Anti-clímax
The stunning views from the pass turn into real places as I climb down a series of switchbacks toward the valley. First it’s still all rock with the occasional pond.
At this point I kind of go into zombie mode. The samenesss of everything coupled with the exhaustion and euphoria leave me spent. My shoulders hurt. There is nothing to do for it but to walk. I try to limit my breaks to every two hours. At that time I take off my pack and eat a snack and drink some water. If I am low on water I get some more. Then I look at the map to see where I am going.
Bench Lake Ranger
It’s nearing the end of the day when a see a sign the says “Ranger Station”. I am intrigued so I follow the sign up the hill. I find two men working in a tent. It’s the ranger and his father who is helping dismantle the station for the year. They are loading everything in barrels to be taken out until spring (by horse, I guess).
The ranger asks if he can help me with something. I say no, I am just curious about the ranger station. What kind of a job would that be? Just live in the woods for three months. I wonder what he does all day. In this moment he does not feel the need to check my permit.
Camp
Bob and I are camping at almost 11,000 feet tonight. It could be cold. My tent is a little exposed. The cloud that has stayed on the top of the mountain is now spilling into the valley. It has surrounded me as I get into bed. I am in my quilt with all my clothes on. It’s a little toasty, so I may take off my jacket. But my feet are still like ice. I should sleep well though as long as I stay dry.
There are only two more PCT passes to cross before I go out over Kearsarge Pass to Independence and some well-deserved rest. My pack is lighter than when I left VVR. Most of my food is gone.
It seems like I have been out here a long time. Is 46 days a long time? I don’t know. Just give me some sleep and ask me again tomorrow.
- September 11
- Starting marker: 823.2
- Ending marker: 809.6
- Miles hiked today: 14
- Total PCT miles: 540
- Answer: the shadow on the tree below is me
Thanks, Dave. Absolutely beautiful country!