We are out of camp at 5:36. I have downed a delicious liter of my favorite electrolyte/caffeine mix, and I have a liter and a half of water to get me to our first and only water stop 7 miles away. If we make our goals, it will be a 20-mile day. Is that goal too ambitious considering our pack weights, our water requirements and the heat? Perhaps.
Road hogs
Within a mile of camp, the trail turns onto a road. It’s the kind of road made for jeeps and ATVs so it is rutted and has lots of rocks. It is not my favorite kind of surface, and it is the kind Dealer really hates.
We are back in the wind farm again. They make a squishy whooshing sound like a placenta on an ultrasound machine. I suppose if I were a baby I might be comforted by this sound. But since it also reminds me of the blood rushing by my ears through my carotid arteries as a pant up and down these exposed hills, I am less than comforted.
Maybe if I just focus on my footsteps and the trail in front of me, this day will pass quicker. Right now it seems like work. Thankfully, I am saved by flowers.
Showdown
We cruise into Golden Oak Springs. It is our only water source for today. The water is a pipe spring with good flow. We camel up and fill our water containers. It is too early for lunch, so we press on. I would like to get more miles done before we stop for lunch. Because even though it is hot, it will be hotter in an hour. We settle on finding a spot after we go 11 miles. That gives us nine miles to hike after lunch.
But 11 miles go by and I can’t find a good spot to sit down. The trail is too sloped on both sides. When I find a spot that might work, and I propose that we stop there, Dealer will have none of it. She needs more room to stretch out. She would rather go on and find something better. She is not in a mood to argue about it. She goes out in front. Seven and I have no choice but to follow. She switches to Beast Mode and speeds up the trail. I admire her determination.
Eventually she finds a flattish spot next to another hiker. We spread out our stuff, eat and try to rest. We have gone over 13 miles before lunch!
Crush
However, I am not OK. It is no one’s fault. It is just too hot for me. I feel my energy flagging. The next few hours will be critical. We still have over seven miles to go to a circle that I drew on the map during my conversation with Bob two days ago. My mind tells me that I made a mistake and that our camp is really 2.5 miles further. Dealer keeps asking for an update about the phantom campsite. I try to lower expectations. However, in my heart I say desperate prayers to God or anyone that will listen that the campsite is real, and that it will be sheltered.
I hike slow, trying not to push myself into the red zone. Seven and Dealer are right behind me. I think about anything. I try not to look at my watch. I have the occasional vertigo sensation as the trail swoons below me. This is so stupid. Why am I so weak?
I lay sit down on the side of the trail, my heart racing. I tell Seven and Dealer to go ahead. If they reach our destination before I do, they can search for a campsite.
Crash
We reach the place circled on the map. There is a chance for camping here. It is a little exposed, but there are some flat spots. We agree to stay here. I lay on the ground behind some low bushes, as much out of the sun as possible. Seven and Dealer set up their tent. I lay there for 90 minutes trying to cool off. As the sun drops, I urge it along.
Seven and Dealer occasionally look out at me from their tent. They are probably concerned. I am going to be OK though. I just need time. I eat a few snacks and set up for cowboy camping tonight. I skip writing for the first time this hike. I will have to write it later. I need to take care of myself first.
I am sorry that this post is such a downer, but it was a hard day. Not every day is great out here. But tomorrow is another day. It will be better. I know it.
- June 17, 2023
- Starting marker: 573.3
- Ending marker: 592.8
- Miles hiked today: 20
- Total PCT miles: 563
You are allowed to have hard days, that’s what makes the easier days, well much easier. Glad you are feeling better, waiting longer to eat lunch and worrying about the campsite for the night is not a good combination for you. Thanks for the beautiful pictures.
We’re all out here, wishing you well. Hang in there!