Yesterday, Bob and I took a bus from Mammoth Lakes to Independence, a small town on Highway 395 south of Mammoth and hopefully clear of the smoke that is ruining the air over the central Sierras. The bus was pretty full. We weren’t the only ones who had fled the trail due to smoke.
We ended up in the Courthouse Motel – a quaint drive-in with the most precious Indian Lady who welcomed us, gave us some snacks and showed us our room like she was our aunt. I climbed in bed almost immediately and within 15 minutes was asleep. It was the most restful sleep I had experienced since leaving home.
This morning, we are out by the road that leads to Onion Valley, where the trailhead to Kearsarge Pass can be found.
We wait here for an hour…. Two cars drive by. Neither one stops. I feel completely responsible. Hitchhiking is one of my superpowers. And yet, I am unable to summon a ride.
Dejected, we walk down the street to the Mt. Williamson Hotel because they sometimes offer rides to hikers that stay with them. I feel my confidence returning. Perhaps there is a reason for my inexplicable failure.
The hotel owner is unable to transport us, but (an important conjunction) they know someone who can, and within an hour we are at the trailhead. I feel somewhat vindicated – my faith in my abilities restored. Even the best among us can be forgiven an occasional stumble.
The Plan
The trail over Kearsarge Pass leads to the PCT. Unfortunately this intersection is 126 miles south of my exit into Mammoth Lakes. I have skipped most of the major passes on the PCT in the Sierras. The smoke from the Garnet fire made those miles unhikable. Yes, it’s crappy. Bob and I skipped ahead to the closest smoke-free section – the section south of Kearsarge Pass. Fortunately, this section also includes Mt Whitney, so I should be able to complete my summit, which is like the whole reason I came out here this year! The weather forecast appears favorable, but I have determined that forecasts are for the gullible. I have joined the ranks of the skeptical. I think forecasts are amusing now.
The itinerary is three days of hiking, the Whitney Summit, another day of hiking and then off the trail at Cottonwood Pass. This must happen. This will happen.
Early Trail
From my vantage point in Independence, the mountain still looked Smokey.
But from up on the pass trail you can see that most of the smoke has settled in the valley below.
Bob and I continue up the trail to Kearsarge Pass. Despite the chilly air, we soon begin to sweat. It’s no small climb – up 2500 feet over 4.5 miles. This lake is popular with the locals.
The last third of the climb is steep and rocky.
Near the top is one of my all-time favorite alpine lakes – Pothole Lake. Its round shape, azure color and dramatic setting are so pleasing to look at. I want to reprimand the fool who named this lake after a hole in the road.
Kearsarge Pass
I reach the pass ahead of Bob. There are people up here. There always are. It amazes me considering the conditions. There are limited flat places to stand. It is normally cold and very windy. It’s not a good place to hang out. But it’s fun to look back on where you’ve come from and ahead to where you’re going. And that feeling of accomplishment, too. Lots of pictures are taken on passes. Here is one of me.
Bob makes it up to the pass. He has been pacing himself today, knowing that tomorrow we traverse the highest pass on the PCT – Forrester Pass at 13,000 feet.
Here is an unobstructed view of the valley west of the pass
Bob and I camped above this little lake in 2022, and froze our butts off, too.
Back on the PCT
The first car I bought with my own money was a 1977 VW Rabbit. I loved driving that car but it broke down a lot. The PCT feels that way to me today. I love it, but I don’t trust it.
So the PCT pulls out all the stops. Look at this stunning mountain.
Another view.
I am grinning like an idiot. The beauty and majesty of these mountains really gets me going. I’m like those midwestern tourists in New York City – I can’t stop looking up! This next photo is just stupid good!
Cold Crash
I have been chilly all day. (Hungry? Tired?) We settle into camp early and start dinner right away. We both want to get cozy and warm in our quilts. Tomorrow is another big day. Forrester Pass awaits.
September 10, 2025