Day 22 – Oregon

I wake at 3:45 because I hear a rustling noise. I look out the end of my tarp – there is nothing there. It appears that Ditty is up, but the women sometimes get up early to pee (who doesn’t). I close my eyes again. When I open them it is 4:40 – and the women are gone. Like phantoms they appear and disappear. Their ghostly headlamps becoming dim. The soft crunching of their feet no more than an echo in my mind. These are the women of the PCT.

Alright, alright. They got up early and left before me. To make matters worse though, I am frustratingly slow getting out of camp. It is 6:15 before I put trekking poles to trail. What is wrong with me? I am excited about entering Oregon. But my excitement does not translate into speed or efficiency.

The waking world consoles me. “They are too early for us, too,” it says. The sleepy dawn cracks open one eye.

This is my fourth selfie. I take one every seven days to record the changes in my face. The split bottom lip seems to be permanent. Too much heavy breathing on ascents, coupled with the dry western air caused it. I need these lips to heal before I return. They are not good for kissing of any kind.

Cows of the PCT

I stop just in time to avoid the most enormous cow pie I have ever seen.

Is this from one of the cows I herd (sic) the night before? Good Lord. Is this the same forest that spawned Babe The Blue Ox (a northern legend)? As I move on I hear the cowbells. Then suddenly, I see one through an opening in the trees. It sees me at the same time and bolts!

A brown cow follows. I holler “How now!” But it disappears into the hills. The trail seems to parallel their path, so I continue until I get this rare shot. Please play it with the sound on for full effect.

It wouldn’t be right to have a day on the PCT without another shot up marker.

A curious place

I enter a place called Donomore Meadow. It has its own cabin that is used as a shelter by PCT hikers. The cabin has a loft, some cots and outside, it’s own outhouse.

North of California

Within less than a mile, something magical happens – I enter Oregon. For hikers that start at the Mexico border this is a huge moment. For almost 1700 miles, they have seen nothing but California. For me it is not so big. I have been hiking for a little over 300 miles, and as The Terminator says, “I’ll be back.” Still, it is fun to sign the register and see the names you know that have gone before.

I love Oregon

I feel really good today and the tread is perfect. I think I will go farther than I originally planned. This will get me closer to Ashland. Unlike California, the trail has been maintained here. I meet a lot of folks. These ladies have their own “tundra hound”.

And then, for the first time on the PCT – real trail magic. These coolers are full of sodas. I crave orange soda when I hike and I drank one straight down. It is warm, but it still tastes great.

Not long after that, the skies begin to darken and I see rain. I put on my rain jacket. I meet a friendly couple from San Francisco who are also wearing rain gear. I take their picture and he asks me if I can “air drop” it to him. I have no idea what he means. He shows me that I can send him the photo over the phone’s Bluetooth connection. I never knew!

I make it to the campground that is my target. I have done 23 miles! I think that ties my biggest daily mileage total. The campground is full except for one wind-blown spot. I grab it, choke down a tuna and chili cheese Frito burrito and lay out my bed. The wind tries to get under my quilt like it did two weeks ago, but I am smarter now. I know how to prevent that. I know a lot more than I did at the start. I feel good about that

Tomorrow I will be in Ashland to rest, resupply and prepare for Canada. I will take a zero day there as well and upload my posts from the last week. I can have a nice talk with Patti, too. I know a lot is happening at home with her, and even though I am having fun on the trail, I do miss her a lot.

• June 23
• Starting mile: 1687
• Ending mile: 1710
• Daily PCT miles: 23
• Total PCT miles: 338
• Animals: musical bovines, tundra dog, many many beetles